La Mujer Obrera

Grasshopper tacos & folklorico: Cafe, Mercado Mayapán full of surprises, promise
By Victor R. Martinez | El Paso Times
August 5, 2009

Inside the Mercado Mayapan offers a variety of treats including a fruit stand in the middle.

EL PASO -- At a recent rally for U.S. Senate Democratic candidate John Sharp, more than 100 people filled the tables in Cafe Mayapán.

Many in the audience were there to hear from Sharp and to learn more about his platform.

But the laughs were reserved for after the speeches, when Sharp was fed tacos de chapulines.

So, Sharp was in South El Paso eating tacos -- what's so unusual about that?

Well, you see, tacos de chapulines are, in fact, fried grasshopper tacos.

"Many people are surprised when they find out what is on our menu," said Elizabeth Cerna, the head chef at Cafe Mayapán, a Mexican-style market run by the nonprofit La Mujer Obrera at 2101 Myrtle. "We change the menu every month to reflect a different region of Mexico.

In July, the featured region was Oaxaca.

"My love of tacos only goes so far," said Humberto Saenz, who was eating a plate of mole coloradito (pork). "I had a friend who tried the tacos de chapulines. He put a lot of guacamole in it, I think to mask the taste of grasshopper and to hide the body parts."

Saenz said his lunch mate described them as having a real earthy, bitter, grassy taste to them.

"There is a reason they make people eat crap like that on reality TV," Saenz said laughing.

Cafe Mayapán, which has been open since May, has already featured cuisine from Veracruz and Chihuahua.

In August, Cerna will focus on foods from Michoacán. Michoacán borders the states of Colima and Jalisco to the west, Guanajuato and Querétaro to the Advertisement north, México City to the east, Guerrero to the southeast, and the Pacific Ocean to the south.

"We have two kitchens," said Ana Gomez, who manages the 40,000-square-foot mercado. "One for regular, everyday Mexican food and the other that serves regional foods."

Gomez said the Chihuahua region has been the most popular.

"That's because people are familiar with those types of foods," she said. "In September we are going to have foods from Jalisco, then in October we are going to try something a little different. We are going to feature foods made with masa. In November we will celebrate the Dia de los Muertos food, and we'll have posada food in December."

The mercado, which employs 100 people and has 15 independent vendors, opened May 1.

But it's more than a food court. Vendors sell fresh produce, traditional Mexican food and arts and crafts, and it features music, dancing and other cultural programs.

"This is like going to the mercado in Juárez, except cleaner and safer," said Sonya Gutierrez who was walking out with a bag full of chile seco (dried chiles) and Mexican candy. "I walked out of here with a full belly and a fresh licuado (shake)."

Organizers say that besides creating jobs and opportunities for low-income El Paso women, the mercado is expected to become a tourist attraction showcasing Mexico's diverse culture.

The market is in a former South-Central El Paso textile plant that cost $2.3 million to refurbish.

"I have visited the mercado at least twice a month since it opened," said Nester Garcia, "either for lunch or I bring out-of-town guest who want to get a feel of Mexico without going into a war zone in Juárez. I just wish they sold Mexican beer to go along with the food."

2009 © elpasotime.com